You’ve probably had a moment when you come across a photo or artwork on social media and immediately feel that the creator has a unique vision. Luka Panchulidze is one of those people – a young artist currently studying fashion design at NABA in Milan, while steadily gaining attention online with his work. In an interview with N13, Luka talks about his early steps, creative process, and the personal stories behind his vision.
1. You live and study in Milan – the fashion capital. What exactly are you studying, and why did you decide to connect your future to this city and field?
I think I chose fashion subconsciously from childhood. I always loved drawing – mostly ballerinas and people. When it was time to choose a path, I didn’t really consider alternatives: it had to be fashion or painting. Even though studying abroad always felt like the right idea, after finishing public school it seemed like too big of a step, so I got scared. That’s why I enrolled at the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts. It was a difficult and quite melancholic period – living alone, cold seasons, and the environment made it even more intense. But now I see how much it prepared me, and I even miss that time. One day during a drawing lecture, I realized staying there for four years would not be right for me, so I started preparing to apply elsewhere. Compared to Paris and New York, Milan felt more accessible, and also closer to Georgia – that played a big role in my decision.
2. From your social media, it’s clear you’re a multidisciplinary creator – drawing, sewing, graphics. Where does it all come from? What inspires you?
Learning to draw and improving my technical skills is thanks to my teachers from childhood and school years – Davit Janezashvili and Levan Londaridze. I’m very grateful to them. As for sewing, I started from zero. When I arrived in Milan, I didn’t even know how to properly hold scissors. NABA helped a lot, but so did my grandmother – her support made it possible for me to keep up. My inspiration comes from people – artists, friends, family. But in the end, everything comes down to personal taste and instinct. That’s what shapes every detail.
3. Your designs often reinterpret traditional Georgian clothing. Why did you choose Georgian identity and culture as a key element in your work?
I wouldn’t say Georgian themes will always be central – time will tell. But in the past two years, I’ve intuitively explored two themes that really changed my creative direction. Last year’s project, “Fufala’s Service,” combined two very different worlds: a legendary Georgian film character and a Soviet-era iconic object. I think I’ll return to this idea later with a deeper approach. This year, my focus is “Kinto.” I see huge potential in it for fashion, and it might take several collections to fully explore. These themes are very personal, but their authenticity also helped me stand out and define the style I’m developing now.
4. Many Georgian designers reflect cultural identity in their work. You often use elements of the chokha. Why this garment, with such a long history?
Answering this made me realize my diploma collection is actually connected to a kind of personal trauma. I danced Georgian dance for nine years because of my parents. I wore traditional costumes many times and performed in concerts, but I never had a solo or a special role like my friends. I didn’t enjoy it – for me, it felt very difficult, so I wasn’t a good dancer. But once, I had a very small solo part in “Kintouri.” I still don’t understand why I got it, since I often skipped rehearsals. I think about that moment a lot – maybe I should have tried harder. I was left with a feeling of something unfinished. There’s not even a video of me dancing. That’s why this collection is so personal – I put all my energy into it. If someone told 13-year-old me that my most important collection would be connected to Georgian dance, I wouldn’t believe it.
5. When designing, what interests you more – menswear or womenswear?
Until I was 20, I focused only on womenswear. But in the last year and a half, menswear has become dominant in my work, which surprises me too. Still, I don’t want to limit myself – I see myself working with both equally in the future.
6. Today, digital platforms make things easier for designers. How do you see this – do you prefer digital or traditional paths?
I really like the balance between the two. We should follow the time and use every opportunity to share our work. Social media can open many doors, help us inspire others, and connect with creative people. For me, these two worlds can’t exist without each other.
7. Whose style do you find most interesting?
I don’t have one specific person – everyone has strengths and weaknesses. Someone chooses great shoes, someone great pants. I always find something I would change. But in terms of physical presence, I can name a few: young Kate Moss, Jude Law, Ezra Miller, Gwyneth Paltrow – and most importantly, my mother.
8. What is your favorite fashion house or designer?
I like many fashion houses and feel I could fully dedicate myself to the brand I work for. Recently, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent feel closest to me – I always look forward to their shows. It would also be a huge honor to work with Demna’s team, no matter where he is. And of course, John Galliano and Maison Margiela will always have a special place for me.
9. Your music taste is also noticeable. How does music affect your work?
I like alternative, indie, and some classic rock. My all-time favorite band is Arctic Monkeys – I’ve listened to them since my teenage years. Lana Del Rey is also connected to that time. Recently, thanks to a friend, I started listening more to Radiohead and a Georgian artist, Maxime Machaidze. Though I’m a bit “upset” he doesn’t follow me on Instagram (just kidding… or maybe not). I usually don’t listen to music while working, but last year, while working on “Fufala’s Service,” I listened to Fleetwood Mac a lot – it really matched the concept and helped creatively.
10. Finally, what are your future plans?
Talking about the future makes me a bit nervous. What I can say is that I’ve really fallen in love with Milan – it feels more and more like my second home. Launching my own brand is not something I clearly see yet. For now, I prefer working for other fashion houses and gaining as much experience as possible. I think this age should be about learning and growth – ideally continuing with a master’s degree while working. At the same time, I get many messages from people who want to buy my designs, which is very tempting. And of course, I won’t forget Georgia – I would love to have a small store there one day.
Interview: Mariam Bekauri
