Milan is once again at the centre of the fashion world, showing why the Italian fashion capital remains a key meeting point for traditional craftsmanship and modern ideas. This season, leading fashion houses presented collections that were diverse, bold and highly individual. The runways brought together modern takes on fashion archives and different eras, as well as fresh ideas that connect high fashion with everyday life, street culture and personal freedom.
Institution
Galib Gasanov presented Institution’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection in a deconsecrated church. This time, the designer took inspiration from the traditional Azerbaijani silk scarf, bringing a light and sensual feel to the collection. Alongside silk, the collection featured leather and wool. The colour palette was mainly built around neutral tones, with red as the key accent. In Azerbaijani culture, the colour is associated with the symbol of the pomegranate.
Blumarine
David Koma presented Blumarine’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Milan Fashion Week. The dark romanticism and gothic silhouettes often linked to the brand gave way to a coastal mood, with sheer tulle, lace, light fabrics and details inspired by surf culture. The change was also clear in the colour palette. Blumarine’s usual darker tones were replaced by soft pastel shades. Pink, blue, white, purple and green appeared alongside floral prints, which became one of the strongest elements of the collection.
Gucci
For Gucci’s latest collection, Demna brought together different eras of the fashion house, from 1990s Italian elegance and classic Gucci to his own bold aesthetic. Preppy looks stood out, combining bomber jackets, rugby shirts, low-rise jeans and oversized belts. In the menswear line, the designer also looked back to the Gucci aesthetic of the 1980s and 1990s.
Moschino
Lori Messina and Simone Rizzo presented their debut collection for Moschino on the roof of a parking garage, with hundreds of people moving in the opposite direction to the models. The setting reflected the idea that clothes are not made only for the runway, but for real people and everyday life. The collection brought Moschino’s recognisable style into a new context, with playful details, graphic prints, bold colours and silhouettes shaped around the body.
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis looked to Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1947 Invisible Sandal as the starting point for his latest Ferragamo collection. The surreal shape of the shoe was connected to the photographic experiments of Lee Miller and Man Ray. The influence of the 1940s could be seen in the defined waist, wide trousers, double belts and details inspired by military uniforms. Sheer silk and wool, rubber textures and shapes inspired by the movement of sand gave the collection a distinct surrealist character.
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana called their latest collection for Dolce & Gabbana “Stravaganza Siciliana”. At its centre was the idea of bringing individual style back to life. The designers looked to Sicilian wardrobes from different eras and mixed them with contemporary elements. A white handmade skirt was styled with a black lace bra, classic tweed was paired with lightweight linen, while vintage silk pieces were combined with oversized jeans.
Bottega Veneta
Louise Trotter dedicated Bottega Veneta’s latest collection to the transition between seasons. The designer mixed warm winter pieces with lighter details for spring and summer. The show opened with strong shoulders and oversized coats before moving into lighter and more colourful silhouettes. Lilac, pale yellow and blue brought a spring feel to the collection, while handmade lace and Bottega Veneta’s signature intrecciato technique added a distinctly summery mood.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani’s latest collection combines classic elegance with modern details. Neutral tones and clean, structured shapes define the main direction of the collection. Metallic details and shimmering fabrics add a more contemporary and evening feel to the looks. Armani’s familiar minimalist style appears in more defined silhouettes throughout the Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
